Going to the Theater

In researching our trip, we ran across a short blurb about Pula in the Istrian Region of Croatia. Neither of us can recall exactly where, but it fascinated us. Almost everywhere we have been traveling for the last 25 years was touched by the Romans 2000 years earlier. From England south to the settlements around Tangier in Morocco. To the east into Greece and Turkey, and of course, Rome itself, all had Roman footprints all over them. When we first saw that there was one of the most well-preserved Roman amphitheaters in Pula, it was added to a growing list of must-see places.

But the challenge seemed to be getting there. In the off-season, the ferries only run on Wednesday and Sunday. Then Friday gets added in during the swing season and finally it becomes daily during the summer. All over the Dalmatian Coast, we could tell that things were gearing up for a busy summer season, we were just early. We had built our trip around getting places on ferries and believed that the ferry ride from Zadar to Pula would also be a great way to see more of the Croatian Islands. The problem is that these high-speed ferries can tend to keep the windows covered with sea-spray and not much is clear. But, it turns out that what we were supposed to be focusing on was inside the ferry all along.

When we first queued to get on the ferry, there were very few people. But before we left, the ferry slowly filled up. The Krilo Lux is a passenger-only ferry and seats 428 people. The top deck was closed but easily 250 passengers on the ferry. There are seven stops at different islands along the way. At each stop, we’d lose maybe 50 to 75 passengers but then add 50 to 75 passengers to keep the boat full.

Friday before we left was a National holiday in Croatia, Labor Day. This country shuts down. Some of the people on the ferry were obviously workers, heading out to work on a construction project on one of the outlying islands. Some were obviously on holiday, perhaps seeing family over the weekend on a different island. Perhaps, just a vacation. Some appeared to have gone to Pula to do some shopping that they could not do on their island. Many were young with toddlers and puppy dogs in tow. Once on board, the people started talking with each other. The toddlers started talking to each other and the doggies had stories of their own to share with their peers. By the time we arrived in Pula, the ship sounds were almost as loud as a bar full of people. It was a blast. The word of the day, repeated from a prior trip because it is the most appropriate word, is synchronicity. Being in the right place, at the right time, as life unfolds…

We caught an Uber to the Hotel where the night clerk was kind enough to wait for our late arrival. We loved our short, one-night stay at the Boutique Suites Joyce Hotel. Themed after the writer, James Joyce, there was a portrait of him in our room. Fortunately, his gaze was away from our bed.

The word “suites” may give the wrong impression to westerners. This is one of the smallest hotel rooms we have ever had. We managed to stuff our luggage in the few corners. It was an angular room that was all bed. But the key attribute was the balcony. A set of small double doors opened onto a small balcony, with two metal chairs and a table. We had prepared for this and brought a bottle of wine and cheese and crackers. We sat, staring at a Roman Arch, no more than 15-18 feet from us. We spent the evening imagining its construction. Who built it, slaves? soldiers? How was it constructed. What about the lives of those around at the time. So many questions.

These two pictures look the same but one is a picture we took and the other is a painting. This is the only hotel room we have ever stayed in that we encountered a picture of the balcony in a gift shop in the Olive Oil Museum somewhere else in town. The balcony on the building on the right was our room, opening onto this majestic monument.

Our morning started at a bakery for some breakfast, consisting of croissants and strudel, and coffee at a sidewalk coffee shop. While sitting there, a group of school children, maybe 9-10 years old, gathered on the steps next to our hotel and started singing songs. They were joined by others over the morning and everywhere we went that morning, there were kids on school field trips. Again, one of the pleasures of synchronicity. Just being present.

As we approached the arena, we were stunned by its size. As we entered, we went up a small set of steps and landed on the arena floor. The same floor that had seen gladiators fight wild animals and each other. We look around and can hear and feel the roar of the crowd. Either for our victory or for our defeat. The arena had seats for about 30,000 people. Events were all-day events, with a break to go home and have lunch. Only a portion of the arena has been restored. Today concerts are held in the arena and we saw that John Legend is performing there on July 4th.

The feeling of being there was almost as impressive as being on the floor of the Colosseum in Rome. Of the known and preserved amphitheaters, this is among the six largest and one of the best preserved. We climbed up to the spectator seats and continued to hear the crowds. The nobility seats on the other side had not been restored. Just ‘being’, in a place like this, is enough.

We picked up a rental car and sadly left Istria and Croatia, but not before stopping at an olive orchard to sample some of Istria’s finest. Olive oil and wine are two of the main products of this area from the time of the Romans until today. There were olive trees everywhere. We tasted different oils from the smoothest, light tastes (for salads) to the full bodied (for meats.) We were told that Croatia is in the top 5 of olive oil producing countries, but a little research proved this wrong. Not even in the top 10 but they are very good olive oils.